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Lawn Care Sevices



Aeration removes thousands of small soil cores that are 1-3 inches in length from the lawn. These cores then melt back into the lawn after rainfalls, mixing with whatever thatch exists on the lawn. The holes created by aeration catch the fertilizer and water. Turf roots are then naturally grown towards these pockets and then thicken in the process. Aeration holes also relieve pressure from compacted soils, letting oxygen and water move freely into the root zone along with other vital nutrients.
Thatch on the lawn works like a thatched roof. This layer of roots, stems, and other plant parts sheds water and prevents fertilizers and insect controls from moving into the soil. Thatch that is too heavy can require major lawn renovation. Regular aeration helps thatch break down naturally by mixing the soil cores into the thatch and speeding up decomposition. Performed once or twice a year, aeration significantly reduces thatch and improves turf growth, providing you with a masterpiece of a lawn.
Do to modern technology there is now several ways of Safe Chemical usage to remove weeds from ornamental turf areas selectively. E.L. Services Inc. is Licensed by the Department of Agriculture and our staff is trained in Safe Chemical Lawn Care. Supplementing regular watering with a safe chemical for your lawn is a fast and effective way of delivering essential nutrients directly to the roots, where they are absorbed and transformed into beautiful looking lawns.
Warm season grasses are much easier to figure out than cool season grasses. Warm season grasses break dormancy in late spring, reach their peak in mid-summer and begin to go dormant in early fall. Warm season grasses emerge from dormancy in spring and begin to go dormant in fall as soil temperature approach 50 degrees. These grasses turn straw colored when dormant and no photosynthesis or growth occurs until green-up in spring. Adding fertilizer when the grass is dormant is unnecessary and will have no effect on the grass. Warm season grasses have varying nitrogen requirements, so the amounts and timing of the nitrogen applications must be considered. However, a rule of thumb for many warm season grasses is to equally divide the total amount of nitrogen over the growing season. For bermudagrass, it is one lb. of nitrogen for every month the grass is growing. It would call for lower amounts for zoysiagrass, centipede-grass and buffalo grass. For low fertility grasses, equal amounts of nitrogen in two or three applications spread over the growing season will work. In the deep south or in places around the world where warm season grasses remain green all year, the grass should be fertilized as needed. If temperatures in winter are just warm enough to keep the grass from going dormant, don't use a heavy rate of fertilizer. Instead, use only enough to keep it from becoming chlorotic. (Turning yellow from lack of chlorophyll.) Too much fertilizer in winter will push the grass to grow when it shouldn't be growing that much. This forces the grass to use its stored carbohydrates.
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